Added all the grain and gave it a good stir.
I then added ice until the temp lowered to mash temp of 65-68c (150-155f)
With the temp at the mash range I then maintained it for 60 minutes.
After the mash I strained the grain out with
a cheese cloth lined colander into a bucket.
The grain was then raised for a while so all the wort drainer out.
It then went back into the now rinsed pot, the pale DME was stirred in and then it was heated to a boil.
This was taken when the hot break occurred about 20 min after turning the heat on. At this point I set the timer for 60minutes and maintained the boil.
This was taken after the first hops addition.
0.5oz cascade hops was added at :60, :30 & :15
At :01 of the boil I added the last 0.5oz cascade hops
and the pound of honey.
With the boil done the pot went into an ice bath and was quickly brought to 21 c (70f).
It was then stained into a bucket. I tried a few things here. First with cheese cloth which quickly clogged then just with a stainer. Lots of hop reside was missed. Not sure if this is a problem? I guess I can separated it out when I rack to the secondary.
I then aerated the wort really well by transferring it between the pot & bucket about 5 times.
With that done it went into a carboy and then I topped it with water to 11.5 liters (3gals) and mixed well.
I then took a gravity sample which ended up being 1.050. After that the yeast was pitched into the carboy.
Finally here it is completed and on its way to becoming ale.
a cheese cloth lined colander into a bucket.
0.5oz cascade hops was added at :60, :30 & :15
and the pound of honey.
Nice view into the process, most of the time I've done primary in a plastic fermenter, and I want to try it in a carboy (I usually just use my carboy for secondary). It's way easier to see when the yeast starts to get active if its glass. My advice for dry hopping, use sterilized panty hose and marbles for dry hopping the saaz, it makes removing them way easier.
ReplyDeleteInteresting process. Good luck with your batch !
ReplyDeleteHops residue through a coarse strainer is perfectly ok. It's what I do and I tend to think it makes it more hoppy in the end product.
ReplyDeleteYour math on the initial gravity is perfect. I am really interested to see how this turns out.
phirleh - Good tip on the dry hopping, I will have to try that
ReplyDeletemiss m - It was interesting to do, lots of work though. We will have to see if it is worth all the work at drinkin time :-)
Red - The gravity did seem good, I was actually expecting a lower number. It seems quite dark in the carboy, it will be interesting to see how it looks in the glass.
Wow! You sure did learn a lot very quickly. I can't wait to see how it turns out.
ReplyDeleteVery nice Dan.....you sure are doing a lot of brewing...My husband is bummed that we can't brew yet...home remodel and daughters wedding put a hold on that :) but hopefully by March we can get back into it. Until then, we will just have to follow your progress. Keep up the great brewing!
ReplyDeleteHow long do you have to wait before all your friends can come round and party?
ReplyDeleteRibbit - It is dangerous when I pick up a book... :-)
ReplyDeleteSunny - Lots of brewing for sure. I may take a break after this one, maybe one more though before a break... I will look forward to seeing your next brew
Matron - The beer takes 3 weeks to ferment and then 2 weeks to carbonate in the bottle. Then drunkin time :-)
Dan, don't sweat getting the hop residue out. It will settle in fermentation and be fine.
ReplyDeleteBent - Thanks for the info!
ReplyDelete